diff --git a/README.md b/README.md index ae2f6142757c91e6275b570242551f638aef797d..69ca435f0f2657d00a0320e8e601de31623265a5 100644 --- a/README.md +++ b/README.md @@ -1,92 +1,154 @@ -# srm-20_guide +# USING THE CBA SRM 20 PCB MILL +hello. Do you want to use that other PCB mill in 043? This one: +<img src="img/1.mp4"><br> -## Getting started +## the Roland SRM-20 PCB mill +<img src="img/1.jpeg"><br> -To make it easy for you to get started with GitLab, here's a list of recommended next steps. +The basic operation between the SRM-20 and the Lunyee mill that you've been using is pretty similar— this is written assuming that you already know how to use that mill. -Already a pro? Just edit this README.md and make it your own. Want to make it easy? [Use the template at the bottom](#editing-this-readme)! +This machine is operated using Mods: https://modsproject.org/ -## Add your files +To send commands between mods and the mill, bring your computer over and plug the USB A cable in. This cable, specifically: -- [ ] [Create](https://docs.gitlab.com/ee/user/project/repository/web_editor.html#create-a-file) or [upload](https://docs.gitlab.com/ee/user/project/repository/web_editor.html#upload-a-file) files -- [ ] [Add files using the command line](https://docs.gitlab.com/ee/gitlab-basics/add-file.html#add-a-file-using-the-command-line) or push an existing Git repository with the following command: +<img src="img/2.jpeg"><br> -``` -cd existing_repo -git remote add origin https://gitlab.cba.mit.edu/miana/srm-20_guide.git -git branch -M main -git push -uf origin main -``` +Now go to mods in your browser. Because the mill talks to mods over webserial, you <b> MUST USE CHROME or other CHROME DESCENDED BROWSER </b>. -## Integrate with your tools +Once in mods, you will navigate to the Roland SRM 20 PCB milling option, which will look something to the effect of: -- [ ] [Set up project integrations](https://gitlab.cba.mit.edu/miana/srm-20_guide/-/settings/integrations) +<img src="img/18.png"><br> -## Collaborate with your team +Once you open that up, it will give you a graph pretty similar to what you've seen before: -- [ ] [Invite team members and collaborators](https://docs.gitlab.com/ee/user/project/members/) -- [ ] [Create a new merge request](https://docs.gitlab.com/ee/user/project/merge_requests/creating_merge_requests.html) -- [ ] [Automatically close issues from merge requests](https://docs.gitlab.com/ee/user/project/issues/managing_issues.html#closing-issues-automatically) -- [ ] [Enable merge request approvals](https://docs.gitlab.com/ee/user/project/merge_requests/approvals/) -- [ ] [Set auto-merge](https://docs.gitlab.com/ee/user/project/merge_requests/merge_when_pipeline_succeeds.html) +<img src="img/19.png"><br> -## Test and Deploy +You have the option of loading a png or svg, either of which are prepared the exact same way as you've been preparing them for the lunyee. I won't go into mods in too much detail since you've used it before, but the primary difference between the SRM 20 and the lunyee is in how you zero the milling tool— for this SRM-20, we will be doing this from mods— more on that in a bit. For now, let's go back to the machine: -Use the built-in continuous integration in GitLab. +<img src="img/3.jpeg"><br> -- [ ] [Get started with GitLab CI/CD](https://docs.gitlab.com/ee/ci/quick_start/index.html) -- [ ] [Analyze your code for known vulnerabilities with Static Application Security Testing(SAST)](https://docs.gitlab.com/ee/user/application_security/sast/) -- [ ] [Deploy to Kubernetes, Amazon EC2, or Amazon ECS using Auto Deploy](https://docs.gitlab.com/ee/topics/autodevops/requirements.html) -- [ ] [Use pull-based deployments for improved Kubernetes management](https://docs.gitlab.com/ee/user/clusters/agent/) -- [ ] [Set up protected environments](https://docs.gitlab.com/ee/ci/environments/protected_environments.html) +Let's make note of a few important things in this image! The SRM-20 is enclosed, and has a little door. It is very important that whenever the machine is running, this door is closed!!! +### If the spindle is running, this door must be shut!!! -*** -# Editing this README +Also, take note of the allen key magnetted on to the machine— that's the key for tightening the milling tools in, and that magnet is where it lives. Please return it to its home when you are done using it. -When you're ready to make this README your own, just edit this file and use the handy template below (or feel free to structure it however you want - this is just a starting point!). Thank you to [makeareadme.com](https://www.makeareadme.com/) for this template. +Next, you will want to load PCB stock in. (unless you are re-using what's already in there, which is what I'm going to do here...) -## Suggestions for a good README -Every project is different, so consider which of these sections apply to yours. The sections used in the template are suggestions for most open source projects. Also keep in mind that while a README can be too long and detailed, too long is better than too short. If you think your README is too long, consider utilizing another form of documentation rather than cutting out information. +<img src="img/7.jpeg"><br> -## Name -Choose a self-explaining name for your project. +The FR1 is fixed to the cutting bed using double sided tape, the same way you've done for the Lunyee. Let's take not of something important in this image: <b> there are two layers of FR1 </b>. -## Description -Let people know what your project can do specifically. Provide context and add a link to any reference visitors might be unfamiliar with. A list of Features or a Background subsection can also be added here. If there are alternatives to your project, this is a good place to list differentiating factors. +### the lower layer is the spoil board, and the upper layer is the one you're cutting. You need to have both layers so that the plastic cutting bed underneath doesn't get destroyed. -## Badges -On some READMEs, you may see small images that convey metadata, such as whether or not all the tests are passing for the project. You can use Shields to add some to your README. Many services also have instructions for adding a badge. +You might also notice that the FR1 is hanging over the edge of the plastic base underneath it— try to avoid cutting over floating areas! -## Visuals -Depending on what you are making, it can be a good idea to include screenshots or even a video (you'll frequently see GIFs rather than actual videos). Tools like ttygif can help, but check out Asciinema for a more sophisticated method. +Now that the material is loading, let's load in a milling bit. -## Installation -Within a particular ecosystem, there may be a common way of installing things, such as using Yarn, NuGet, or Homebrew. However, consider the possibility that whoever is reading your README is a novice and would like more guidance. Listing specific steps helps remove ambiguity and gets people to using your project as quickly as possible. If it only runs in a specific context like a particular programming language version or operating system or has dependencies that have to be installed manually, also add a Requirements subsection. +<img src="img/4.jpeg"><br> -## Usage -Use examples liberally, and show the expected output if you can. It's helpful to have inline the smallest example of usage that you can demonstrate, while providing links to more sophisticated examples if they are too long to reasonably include in the README. +There's the spindle, and there's the set screw. -## Support -Tell people where they can go to for help. It can be any combination of an issue tracker, a chat room, an email address, etc. +<img src="img/5.jpeg"><br> -## Roadmap -If you have ideas for releases in the future, it is a good idea to list them in the README. +### Do not overtighten the set screw! It will strip the threads! -## Contributing -State if you are open to contributions and what your requirements are for accepting them. +The SRM-20 likes to play games with you, so do note that there's an indent on the opposite side of the set screw, which in a moment of deep sleep deprivation, you may find yourself trying in vain to tighten: -For people who want to make changes to your project, it's helpful to have some documentation on how to get started. Perhaps there is a script that they should run or some environment variables that they need to set. Make these steps explicit. These instructions could also be useful to your future self. +<img src="img/6.jpeg"><br> -You can also document commands to lint the code or run tests. These steps help to ensure high code quality and reduce the likelihood that the changes inadvertently break something. Having instructions for running tests is especially helpful if it requires external setup, such as starting a Selenium server for testing in a browser. +Just an FYI, that's there. -## Authors and acknowledgment -Show your appreciation to those who have contributed to the project. +Now, we insert the milling bit. -## License -For open source projects, say how it is licensed. +<img src="img/8.jpeg"><br> -## Project status -If you have run out of energy or time for your project, put a note at the top of the README saying that development has slowed down or stopped completely. Someone may choose to fork your project or volunteer to step in as a maintainer or owner, allowing your project to keep going. You can also make an explicit request for maintainers. +You want to install the milling bit much higher than you would actually cut with. As you can see in the image, I'm going to initially install it almost all the way into the collet— this is so that it does not collide with our material when we do our x-y zeroing. This is because we will later lower the milling bit down manually before cutting to do the z-axis zeroing. Close up here: + +<img src="img/9.jpeg"><br> + +From here, we will do our x-y zeroing. Let's get back to mods. + +<img src="img/19.png"><br> + +You'll need to first pair to the machine. Navigate to the node titled WebUSB, and click on Get Device: + +<img src="img/20.png"><br> + +This will pop out a window with webserial devices listed; pick the srm 20: + +<img src="img/21.png"><br> +<img src="img/22.png"><br> + +<b> if the window does not pop out, check if your browser supports web serial! </b> and, if not, switch to one that does, e.g. chrome. + +Once you're paired to the machine, you can control the mill from mods. + +For safety reasons, please be very aware that: + +## mods can now move the machine. + +To zero the x-y axis, go to the window SRM 20 absolute coordinates: + +<img src="img/23.png"><br> +<img src="img/24.png"><br> + +You can change the coordinates in the origin section to move the machine to where you want the origin of your design to be. So in the above image, when you click "move to origin" the mill will move to x:10, y:10, z:10. + +## Make sure that your cutting tool is installed high enough it won't collide, and make sure the door is closed before clicking "move to origin" + +## The machine will move once you click that button. + +Now that the machine is at the correct x-y position, you can slightly lower the z height from mods, and then you will loosen the set screw so that the milling bit contacts the FR1, and then re-tighten in that position. From there, your x, y, and z heights are all set, and you are ready to start milling. Let's go through this: + +The machine at the correct x-y: + +<img src="img/10.jpeg"><br> + +Now I'm going to lower the z height 1-2 mm from mods: + +<img src="img/11.jpeg"><br> + +for visibility of the height of the tool off the FR1: + +<img src="img/12.jpeg"><br> + +Now, I will loosen the set screw so that the milling bit drops onto the FR1 (do the drop gently, i.e. hold onto the milling bit, otherwise the drop can damage the tool). + +<b> While holding the milling bit in place, re-tighten the set screw </b>. Again, you do not need to crank it, overtightening the set screw can damage the threads. + +The reason why you want to hold the milling bit in place is because the tightening of the set screw can slightly lift the milling bit out of place otherwise, which can cause your traces especially to not mill out properly. + +This is everything in place, fingers for visibility: +<img src="img/13.jpeg"><br> +<img src="img/14.jpeg"><br> + +Now, everything is zero-ed correctly, and you are ready to mill your design! + +To do this, load up your png/svg of your traces into mods, select the 1/64" mill traces option, and click calculate. (This is all basically the same as the lunyee). + +### Then, the "waiting for file" button in the WebUsb window will switch to "send file". Once you click "send file", the machine will start milling. + +## Make sure the door is closed!!! + +ok great, the SRM 20 milled out your traces: + +<img src="img/16.jpeg"><br> + +Before we cut the outline out, let's vacuum up the chips: + +<img src="img/17.jpeg"><br> + +Great. Beautiful. + +Now, you will switch out your milling bit, following the instructions as above, to cut out your outline. Make sure your x and y zeros are the same as for your traces. (your z zero in mods does not need to be the same, since we manually set that by lowering the height of the milling tool). + +Here is a video showing the machine milling, starting from once the tool is zeroed, and mods has computed the outline cut path (mill outline 1/32). + +<img src="img/2.mp4"><br> + +As you can see, the machine will start as soon as you press "send file", so please be aware/prepared for that. + +Once the part is cut out, you can vacuum up the chips, and then pry your PCB out. 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